A Quick Guide to Fabric Content
If you want to start buying clothing in natural fibers (but don’t know where to start), you have no idea what viscose is, or are not sure if you have to dry clean silk, keep reading!
I am not the ultimate authority on the care or crafting of different fabrics, but I have felt, photographed and washed enough clothing pieces to offer some general advice about fabric content. A lot of us have an idea about wearing “quality fabrics”, but what does that really mean? We’ve all had experiences where we bought something with a high price tag, only for its quality to disappoint us.
Consider this fabric content guide as a reference point for your shopping adventures, whether in my shop or elsewhere.
Disclaimer: There are many factors you may want to consider when purchasing clothing based off of fabric content. I am not an authority expert on the production on these fabrics and their environmental effect. Some fabrics may be natural, but use vast natural resources to produce. Others may be synthetically produced but technically more “green” in their production. Greenwashing, or the practice of using words like “eco friendly” or “sustainable” simply for advertising practices, is unfortunately widespread.
Cotton
Cotton is a natural plant based fiber. It is versatile and can be made into everything from a light voile for a summer dress to a knit yarn for a sweater to a denim pair of blue jeans.
Cotton is produced from the cotton plant, which you probably know. The fibers used to make cotton are hollow, making the fabric is breathable, absorbent, and durable.
Pima cotton is a higher quality type of cotton made from a longer silkier fiber It is softer, more durable, and is apparently better for sensitive skin. The US is also one of the major producers of Pima cotton, which is an added bonus.
Care suggestion: Different types of cotton require different types of care, but generally are easy to wash and care for. I wash almost all clothing in cold water, just to air on the side of caution. Most of my cotton pieces are machine washed but I have a few pieces that are cotton mixed with other fibers, which I hand wash.
Linen
Linen is also a natural plant based fiber, made from the flax plant. It tends to have a little more texture and weight than cotton. It’s been used since ancient times and is loved for its look, breathability and durability. As it uses less water in its production than cotton, it’s generally considered a sustainable material.
Linen is made all over the world, but European linen is known for it’s high quality. I love wearing linen, and also find it an excellent option for household textiles, such as napkins.
Care suggestion: I machine wash my linen on cold, but am 50/50 about putting it in the dryer. Sometimes I’ll put it through a gentle cycle, and about half the time I’ll let it air dry. It can handle the dryer, but I’ve noticed can get a bit brittle or misshapen over time with too much dryer heat.
Silk
Silk is an animal based fabric made from silk worms, which produce the protein fiber made as a cocoon after feeding on mulberry leaves. I find it ironic because silk is my favorite fabric, and I absolutely hate worms.
Silk is lustrous and breathable. It varies in weight and shine depending on the type of fabric it is made into. Some are very lightweight, such as a crepe de chine, which you would find on a floaty lightweight blouse. Some are heavier, such a crepe for a more structured dress.
In my opinion, silk’s wearability is underestimated. Although there are some very lovely satin pieces that you’d want to keep pristine and professionally clean, I hand wash many of my silk pieces and wear them often— around my kids. It’s more durable than you think and its look and feel can’t be beat.
Care suggestion: Hand wash your silk pieces with a little bit of gentle detergent and a small drop of hair conditioner. Hair conditioner helps to keep the protein fibers soft (basically doing the same as it does for your hair). Air dry.
Wool
Wool is a fiber that comes from the fleece of many different animals— not only sheep but llamas, alpacas, rabbits and even camels. It is resilient, elastic and holds heat incredibly well. It’s also a renewable resource, since the animal produces it regularly, and it is highly biodegradable. This article is full of some really quite remarkable information about it’s qualities and versatility if you’re interested.
Wool fabrics range greatly in terms of weight, feel and quality. Cashmere is very fine and soft, made from the fleece of a certain type of goat. Merino wool is another type of fine wool, made from Merino sheep.
Care suggestion: Wool will last for a while if properly cared for. Heat will cause the fibers to shrink and mat together, so it is important to wash it in cool water. I will usually hand wash in cold water, with a little bit of regular detergent. If it’s a fine wool like cashmere, I’ll add a drop of hair conditioner, which keeps the protein fibers soft (like it does for your hair).
Lay the piece flat on a towel and roll it up for a few hours or overnight before air drying. This will help retain its shape and squeeze out the excess water, which will weight your clothing down and misshape it on a hanger.
I will dry clean wool coats and structured dresses.
Rayon, Viscose, Modal, and Lyocell/Tencel
Rayon, viscose, modal, and lyocell are all made from plant based fibers: viscose is made from plant fibers, rayon is made from wood pulp, modal from beech tree pulp, lyocell is often made from eucalyptus pulp. They all actually fall under the general category of rayon fabrics. The production process is different for each, but they all involve chemicals, which is why they are not considered natural fiber fabrics.
Viscose is basically a high quality rayon fabric, often produced to mimic the look and feel of silk. It is also more durable, with a bit more longevity than standard rayon. We’ve all seen our rayon dresses put through the wash too many times and become sad looking.
Modal is loved for its soft stretchy pajama fabric. Much modal that you see on the market is Lenzing modal, which is a particular brand that is certified to be produced in a sustainable fashion.
Lyocell is another form of rayon, and has a definitive shiny texture similar to silk. It’s a very strong fiber so it’s often combined with others, like cotton or silk. Tencel is a a brand name of lyocell fabric.
Care suggestion: Honestly, there’s a huge range of quality here. I’ve had some rayon dresses that have lasted absolutely forever and gone through the dryer multiple times, while others I hand wash. If there’s a very satin like sheen, I’m tempted to dry clean. However, in most other cases I will run through the washing machine on a cold wash or hand wash, and line dry.
Polyester
Polyester is a synthetic fiber made from petroleum. We’re learning more and more about how it breaks down in microplastics when washed, which go into our water. People prefer it because it washes easily, holds its shape, and can mimic more expensive fabrics like silk.
I really try to stay away from polyester as much as possible. I will make exceptions for second hand pieces if the style is there, especially if it comes to unique vintage pieces and formal wear. And especially if the piece is secondhand, it doesn’t bother me as much to purchase it. My wedding dress was polyester- it is what it is.
Care suggestion: Polyester is resistant to heat and wash wear. Sometimes a more formal dress will need to be dry cleaned or hand washed, so it’s best to refer to care instructions.
Cupro
Cupro is sometimes called “vegan silk” because the look and feel are very similar to silk. It’s actually made from the byproduct of cotton production. Although the fiber itself is recycled, the production can still require a good amount of chemicals, like rayon fabrics.
Care suggestion: I absolutely love the feel of cupro. It’s a bit sturdier than silk, and easy to wash. It does shrink in hot water, so I recommend washing cold, either on a gentle cycle or hand wash.
There are so many factors to consider when choosing clothing fabric content, and some of it just comes down to personal preference. I personally try to wear natural fibers but I’m also realizing sometimes there’s a certain look to some pieces that you can’t get with linen or cotton. The same applies for the pieces that I carry in the shop.
Let me know in the comments down below if there’s any fabric type I should add to the list!
